Home » By Sound Salon, Inlay, Lessons » Inlay part 5
Using a Dremel rotary tool, and a 1/16″ four flute end mill, I “plunge cut” close to the edge of the mortise to be.
I set the depth of cut, using the inlay itself.
I can then hog out the center without worrying about chipping the edges.
After the center is nice and flat, I chase the edges of the mortise in a anti-clockwise motion making fine cuts.
I’m proud to say that not one of my inlays have fallen perfectly into place without a little tweaking of the mortice.
Most of the inlay fits, but there’s always a little corner somewhere that didn’t get fully cut.
For final fitting, place the inlay over the mortise, and align it as best as possible.
Hold it in place, trace around it again.
Remove the inlay section and trim the areas where the pencil shows up.
The inlay should fit snug, but not tight. Too tight and the glue might not full penetrate, or the inlay might break during installation.
After the inlay is seated to my liking, I sprinkle it with large and small particle sawdust (salvaged from the object being inlayed), and rub the dust into any gaps or fine lines. Do not pack the sawdust.
I then flood the inlay and surrounding area with Cyanoacrylate.
After a few hours of drying, the inlay can be sanded down flush.
If any small gaps or pin holes are discovered, they can be re-glued with sawdust.
Once the inlay is sanded flat, I coat it with shellac to seal it and prepare it for finish.
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