Photo #1 shows two or three anonymous tops sitting on the bench beside the jointer plane. Any good plane #6 or larger is fine for joining a top. I prefer a #7 or #8 over a #6. I use the plane sideways on the bench to shoot the joint. No special jig is necessary.

Home » By Sergei and Alan de Jonge » Lesson » Shoot a Joint

©2009 - Mark Kett

Photo #2 shows Alan starting to shoot the joint on both halves of the top that he is joining. The reason I use tops (or backs) as a support for the top I want to join is because I’ve always got tops and backs kicking around and, once I’ve got my plane sharp I can start at the bottom of the blade to shoot joints by putting just two or three slices on the bench.

Then I can go up in increments as the plane blade gets dull. This way I only have to sharpen my blade every 4 to 6 months.

Photo #3 shows Alan taking a pass just in the middle of the top, starting about 3 or 4 inches from the end and not shooting all the way to the other end. This is so that the ends of the top will be nice and tight. If you just keep shooting the plane all the way along the top on each pass, the ends will be open. After 1 or 2 passes in the middle we can take a couple of passes all the way–then check the joint.

Photos #4 and #5 show Alan checking the joint, first on a flat surface, and then against the light. The final check is on the joining board. If it’s good we’ll glue it.  §